Opening this online store reminds me so much of surfing my first point.

A huge swell was forecast from a storm in the Atlantic. The local break would be a complete mess and not even worth checking. Myself and a couple of the other locals hadn't been in the water for a while and we were all starting to itch.

We had heard about this point break that only works on huge storm swells. It was worth a shot. I won't lie, I was nervous! My comfort zone was in waist to shoulder high waves on my 9'8" log. This was going to be heavy!!

We travelled up the night before because the tide times made this spot work best at first light. We arrived in the pitch black to the sound of the waves hitting the rocks that lined the beach. It was enough to make you want to turn around and drive home.

I tried to settle in for the night with a nervous chuckle and the van rocking from the gale force wind outside.

My alarm went off before sunrise so that we could get the board prepped with wax and fins. I was on my 8 foot single fin with the Joel Tudor flex fin locked in. We could hear and, just about, see the white water peel beautifully. It was on!

We suited up and made our way down to the beach. The waves broke so close to the shore that we had to time it perfectly. As soon as the swell died down, one by one, we ran at the sea and paddled like a wind up frog! Once out back, the wait for a wave wasn’t long. A set wave rolled in towards us and it was time to face the music!

I paddled for it. Popped up and let the fin do all the work. It was epic!! All that anxiety and worry was left in that wave and as I popped off the back of it, I paddled back out with a huge smile on my face. 

This is how it felt launching this site; all the worry was all for nothing, just take it day by day and leave all the doubt on the beach.

Share the stoke and stay loose!


January 15, 2021 — Christopher Nelson